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Los 5 defectos mas comunes en los quesos

“Quieres Sobresalir en las Competencias Internacionales de Quesos y Ganar Mínimo Una medalla de Bronce?

 

La clave para lograrlo es evitar producir malos sabores en los quesos.

Esta información que pienso compartir contigo, fue lo que me permitió ganar una medalla de plata en el New Zealand Champions of Cheese Award NZCCA del 2018, una medalla de bronce en el World Cheese Awards WCA del 2018 y recientemente una medalla de plata en el International Cheese Award ICA del 2021

 

 

Dicho esto, a continuación te presento los cinco defectos mas comunes que aparecen en los Quesos Artesanales

Cuando estamos haciendo quesos y dependiendo del tipo de leche que utilicemos, a veces estos quesos salen con defectos. En las competencias internacionales como el WCA, el ITA, el NZCCA entre otros, los jueces asignados a dichas competencias son especialistas en descubrir esos defectos.

1. Demasiada Acidez En El Queso:

Hablemos entonces del primer y más común de todos los defectos: el alto nivel de ácido en los quesos. El sabor ácido ocurre mucho en quesos Latinoamericanos.

Esto se debe a que cuando estamos haciendo quesos, las altas temperaturas de la zona, (hago mención que en Latinoamérica se tienen valores altos de temperatura la mayor parte del año), favorecen al crecimiento de los cultivos lácticos aun después del enmoldado. Imagen cortesia de www.gmtoday.com

Esto hace que el nivel de ácido aumente hasta valores por encima de los estipulados en el diseño del queso en cuestión. Dicho de otro modo; el clima cálido hace que nuestros quesos queden demasiado ácidos.

Ahora bien; por qué pasa eso? ¿Como identificamos ese sabor acido? ¿Como sabemos que un sabor es ácido y no amargo?

Voy a explicarles las causas, pero también voy a explicarles la definición de un sabor ácido, donde se identifica. La idea es que cualquier apasionado de los quesos como ustedes y como yo, lo lleguen a identificar fácilmente.

Hablemos del primer punto: ¿Porque quedan los quesos ácidos? Una vez que el queso está dentro del molde o de la prensa, la acidificación producida por los cultivos lácticos continua; v a veces esa acidificación se produce de manera muy rápida y excesiva.

Cuando un queso es fresco, todavía queda en la cuajada un 15% de lactosa; el otro 85% de lactosa, se va en el suero.

Les recuerdo que la lactosa es el alimento de las bacterias lácticas que hace que estas produzcan ácido láctico como subproducto y es precisamente ese ácido láctico el que aumenta la acidez en el queso y en cualquier derivado lácteo. Dicho porcentaje tiende a disminuir en la maduración, pero en el ínterin, el queso sigue aumentando su acidez.

Las razones de este aumento son diversas y una de ellas se debe a que el queso pudiera estar todavía caliente y las bacterias al estar todavía vivas, siguen produciendo acido, la otra razón es el alto contenido de humedad.

Al haber mayor humedad, hay más lactosa y por lo tanto, mas alimento para los cultivos lácticos. Otra razón es demasiado cultivo en la cuajada lo que acelera la velocidad de producción de ácido.

Dicho de otro modo y usando un lenguaje simple: un mayor número de bacterias por ml de leche producirá mayor cantidad de ácido láctico por cada unidad de tiempo, entre otras razones.

Todavía para mayor compresión, les voy a dar un ejemplo. Digamos que vamos a hacer un queso fresco, cuyo pH al desuerado debería ser 6.1 pero, se ha desuerado a pH 6.0.

Como dije antes, la razón pudo ser porque nos descuidamos o porque la velocidad de acidificación fue mayor que la usual debido a la cantidad de cultivo utilizada y esta fue superior a la normal.

En ese sentido, el pH al siguiente día debió haber sido 5.4 pero, debido a la gran cantidad de cultivo colocado y al aumento de la velocidad de acidificación, el pH real al otro día fue de 4.6.

Por supuesto, cuando ese queso va a ser consumido, este por supuesto tendra un sabor más ácido de lo normal, hasta el punto de que pudiera ser repugnante.

Eso pasa mucho con los quesos frescos. Existe un queso venezolano llamado Queso Llanero, que, debido a las altas temperaturas de la zona, puede desarrollar sabores ácidos. Otros quesos son el queso panela mexicano, el queso blanco, el queso fresco, entre otros.

La segunda razón de este sabor ácido se debe al enfriamiento demasiado violento del queso.

Al enfriarse este de manera rápida, la sinéresis disminuye y al haber mayor humedad, el cultivo se sigue alimentando y produciendo ácido.

Ahora bien, ¿cómo podemos identificar la acidez en los quesos?

La acidez se identifica en la parte media de la lengua y es una sensación muy rápida.

 

2. Sabor Amargo

Este sabor que se llama “bitterness” en inglés, solamente es detectado en la parte de atrás de la lengua y es un sabor difícil de detectar.

Dicha sensación, es un sabor “after taste” es decir que se detecta al tiempo de haber probado el queso y ocurre mucho en quesos madurados.

Su sabor es al sabor que da después que se toma café negro o cuando se toma quinina; un analgésico utilizado para combatir el paludismo en el siglo IX.

¿Ahora bien, cual es otra razón por la que algunos quesos pudieran quedar amargos?

Una razón es el exceso de rennet o cuajo. la otra razón es la utilización de ciertos cultivos que durante la proteólisis (que es la desnaturalización de las moléculas de proteína en moléculas más pequeñas), desarrollan enzimas que producen el mal sabor.

Sin embargo, esos “off flavours” tienden a desaparecer en la maduración. También quesos con bajos en nivel de sal pudieran desarrollar cierto sabor amargo.

A veces, al catar quesos, se tiende a confundir el amargor con el sabor penetrarte (piquant) del queso.

El sabor penetrante en el queso es “apimentado” mientras que el sabor amargo, es sabor a café y es un sabor que como dije antes, tarda en detectarse. Otra causa es el uso de demasiado cloruro de calcio durante la fabricación.

¿Como podemos corregir el sabor amargo en los quesos?

 como hacer quesos

Algunos maestros queseros tratan de enmascarar el amargor, colocando un poco más de sal en la cuajada.

La sal hace que el amargor se nivele con el nivel de sal y sea más difícil de detectar. Sin embargo en las competencias internacionales, especialmente en el WCA jueces experimentados como Carlos Yescas, Ernesto Toalombo, entre otros, es difícil engañarlos y de inmediato penalizan un queso cuando este pasa los niveles permisibles de amargor o de sal. Imagen cortesía de pixabay

 

3. Sabor a Fruta Fermentada

Este tercer defecto de sabor existe en los en los quesos frescos y se refiere al sabor dulce y afrutado; algo así como a fruta fermentada.

Ese defecto produce una sensación de fruta fermentada. Por otro lado, en otros quesos como el parmesano y algunos de cuajada lavada como el queso gouda, emmental, gruyere entre otros, la existencia de ese sabor dulzón se considera una virtud.

En las competencias internacionales de quesos, dependiendo del su tipo, los quesos pueden o no ser penalizados. Ese defecto generalmente ocurre en quesos de cuerpo débil y tiende a aumentar en la medida que el queso va madurando.

La razón del sabor dulzón se debe a que la humedad, al favorecer la fermentación, estimula la producción de alcoholes como el etanol.

Otra razón es el uso de leche de baja calidad o cuando hay un foco de contaminación cruzada post pasteurización.

Un ejemplo de esa contaminación podría ser la mala limpieza de las tuberías por donde pasa la leche en los pasteurizadores o intercambiadores de calor.

Otra razón podría ser el uso de cultivos contaminados lo cual estimula la poca producción de ácido.

Una buena práctica al utilizar cultivos es esterilizar las tijeras antes de cortar el sobre que contiene dicho cultivo.

Eso garantiza un cultivo estéril y libre de contaminación. También es recomendable mantener el cultivo a temperaturas por debajo de cero grados.

Eso retrasará cualquier propagación de elementos nocivos para los cultivos.

4. Sabor Insípido

Otro defecto en los quesos es la falta de sabor. Este defecto se caracteriza por el sabor insípido en el queso y se debe básicamente a la falta de acidificación.

En ingles ese defecto se denomina “Flat” y en quesos jóvenes es de poca importancia, no siendo así, en quesos madurados.

Un queso madurado con falta de sabor es penalizado en las competencias.

Al haber poca acidificación, quiere decir que el cultivo no ha actuado lo suficiente y no ha desarrollado el ácido necesario, por la razón que sea.

La falta de sabor en un queso generalmente va acompañada con poco olor y un color pálido.

5. Sabor Rancio

Imagen cortesía de pixabay.

quesos

El último defecto que mucha gente ya conoce sobre todo en las mantequillas es el sabor rancio. La ranciedad, es un sabor muy desagradable, que da la sensación de comida vieja.

Es un sabor que al principio tarda en sentirse, pero al detectarse, permanece allí por largo tiempo. La ranciedad también se detecta por su olor prominente; olor a rancio o a viejo.

La razón de este sabor se debe a que existe una enzima llamada lipasa que tiende a romper los glóbulos de grasa (triglicéridos) y estos al romperse, liberan ácidos grasos que producen el sabor rancio.

En baja cantidad la lipasa le desarrolla un sabor más penetrante pero agradable a los quesos. Los ácidos grasos responsables del sabor rancio son el ácido butírico y el ácido láurico y estos, al estar presente en bajas concentraciones, mejoran su sabor.

Otra razón de la existencia de la ranciedad se debe a la alta agitación en la leche.  En ese caso, la lipasa empieza actuar y al romper los triglicéridos y liberar los ácidos butíricos y láuricos produciendo el sabor rancio.  

Para su futuro queso, traten de que la leche no sé agite demasiado en los tanques y tendrán un producto de calidad.

Existen otros sabores como el sabor a hervido, el sabor a ropa vieja húmeda, sabor a hongos, sabor a vomito de bebe, entre muchos otros, pero los trataré en otro de mis artículos.  

Si deseas saber mas sobre la manufactura de quesos artesanales aqui hay informacion muy valiosa que te permitirá progresar en tu aprendizaje solo sigue el link y sera tuyo.

https://www.kaimahidairy.com/metodo

Hasta la próxima

Dietrich Truchsess

El Doctor Quesero

     


1 comment

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